Tag Archives: houses

A ceremony in Matola

The pace of my research accelerated in May and, not coincidentally, you haven’t heard from me since then. Mostly I’ve been in Chamanculo; for several weeks I was living with Castigo Guambe’s family at the house I wrote about in … Continue reading

Posted in Maputo, Mozambique, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments

Rainy-day vengeance

In the squatter settlements of many South American cities, building a house with a flat roof is a mark of distinction. It indicates that someday, somehow, you plan on building a second floor. The steel reinforcing bars sprouting from the … Continue reading

Posted in Brazil, Maputo, Mozambique | Tagged , , , , , , , | 6 Comments

The régulo’s daughter

Ana Laura Frederico da Almeida Cumba, also known as Chinoca, lives in what was once her father’s house. In the 1960s, when she was a little girl, it may have been the biggest house in the neighborhood, and it was … Continue reading

Posted in Maputo, Mozambique | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

The world is an egg

A couple of months ago, at an embassy function here in Maputo, I ran into someone who I was friends with in elementary school, in Maryland, and who I hadn’t seen in more than 20 years. Since then I’ve repeated … Continue reading

Posted in Maputo, Mozambique | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Macuti

When most people go to the Island of Mozambique (the former colonial capital and slave-trading port from which the country derives its name) it’s to walk among centuries-old coral-and-lime fortresses, chapels, and mansions, and to breathe in the exquisite decay. … Continue reading

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Wood and zinc

In my last post, I mentioned the wood-frame, zinc-paneled homes that one finds scattered throughout Xipamanine, relics of a time when such a home was for African families the upper limit of luxury. You can find dozens of wood-and-zinc houses … Continue reading

Posted in Maputo, Mozambique | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

Helicopters over Xipamanine

A standard interview begins with the boring question: When were you born? Usually I get the simple answer, and we move on to more interesting things. Ana Magaia, the actress, answered the question with the date (December 27), the year … Continue reading

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Munhuana by boat

A recent visit to Padre Humberto, the Dutch priest at São Joaquim de Munhuana, turned up a trove of photos of the parish’s past. I’ve written before about Munhuana and the Bairro indígena, a colonial-era housing complex built in the … Continue reading

Posted in Maputo, Mozambique | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

The House of Gande

(Story began here.) I was in Tete city, the provincial capital. I had just been in a remote village for a week and a half, where I’d come across the ruins of a general store. Decades ago, before two wars … Continue reading

Posted in Mozambique, Tete | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

The Gande ruins

As one reader noted, a number of the houses that can be seen in the photos of Chirodzi-Sanangwe look impressively put together. I didn’t even show you a full shot of the two-story hut that the local police chief built … Continue reading

Posted in Mozambique, Tete | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments