Tag Archives: chamanculo

Wall by Makwakwa

There are a lot more flat surfaces in Maputo’s bairros than there used to be. Houses and fences were once made exclusively from bundled reeds and corrugated zinc and oil drums split open and beaten into panels. Today, though, well … Continue reading

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Rainy-day vengeance

In the squatter settlements of many South American cities, building a house with a flat roof is a mark of distinction. It indicates that someday, somehow, you plan on building a second floor. The steel reinforcing bars sprouting from the … Continue reading

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Frederico’s family album

In the previous post, I wrote about Ana Laura Cumba and her late father, Frederico da Almeida Cumba, who as régulo in the decades before independence was the most powerful African man in Chamanculo. After the jump (and thanks to … Continue reading

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The régulo’s daughter

Ana Laura Frederico da Almeida Cumba, also known as Chinoca, lives in what was once her father’s house. In the 1960s, when she was a little girl, it may have been the biggest house in the neighborhood, and it was … Continue reading

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Glória and Company

I was in Leiria, a small medieval city about 100 miles north of Lisbon, when I first heard about Xibinhana’s cantina. I was interviewing Dinis Marques who, 45 years before, at the age of 15, left for Mozambique to work … Continue reading

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The world is an egg

A couple of months ago, at an embassy function here in Maputo, I ran into someone who I was friends with in elementary school, in Maryland, and who I hadn’t seen in more than 20 years. Since then I’ve repeated … Continue reading

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Chamanculo

Dinis Marques, the subject of the previous post, just sent me incredible photos of him in Chamanculo in 1965. Images of that place during that time are not easy to come by. More after the jump. If you’re curious what Dinis … Continue reading

Posted in Maputo, Mozambique | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments